Below are some of the most common questions homeowners ask about heating and air conditioning systems. Just click on the question that interests you to go directly to the answer.

Why should I replace my existing heating or air conditioning system?
How expensive are air conditioning and heat pump systems?
How do I select the right heating/cooling system?
What is a load calculation and why is it so important?
What size system do I need for my home?
What is involved in replacing an old system?
What is involved in installing a new system?
How long can I expect a new system to last?
What are some preventative maintenance things I should be aware of?
Should I change my indoor coil?
What is covered in my warranty?

Q: Why should I replace my existing heating or air conditioning system?
A: You may want to consider replacing your air conditioning or heating system if it is older, inefficient or in need of repair. Systems available today are as much as 60% more efficient than those systems manufactured as little as ten years ago. Also, if not properly maintained, wear and tear on a system can reduce its actual or realized efficiency. In addition, if you are concerned about utility bills or faced with an expensive repair, you may want to consider replacing your system rather than enduring another costly season or paying to replace an expensive component. The utility cost savings of a new unit could possibly provide an attractive return on your investment. If you plan on financing the purchase, the savings on your utility bill should be considered when determining the actual monthly cost of replacing a system. Any offsetting savings may permit you to purchase a more efficient system.

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Q: How expensive are air conditioning and heat pump systems?
A: Numerous factors affect the cost of a heating or air conditioning system, including the size of your home, the type and condition of the ductwork installed and accessories you might need such as a thermostat or an electronic air cleaner. We have a complete range of systems and accessories available to meet all your needs, including your financial ones! We will be happy to assist you in finding the right system to meet not only your comfort needs but also your household budget.

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Q: How do I select the right heating/cooling system?
A: First, make sure the unit is properly sized. We will provide a load calculation for your home, and could also provide an energy analysis to determine operating cost. Next, consider any comfort issues in the home. Some products can reduce air stratification and uneven temperatures from room to room. If you have allergies, an indoor unit with an ECM motor will allow you to circulate the air in your home continuously while filtering the air for about the same cost as operating a standard light bulb. Finally, know your budget parameters and the efficiency of the system being proposed. Does the system offer a payback – will the monthly savings over time offset the cost of the new unit or efficiency option being considered?

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Q: What is a load calculation and why is it so important?
A: A load calculation determines what the proper size system is for your specific home. It factors in a number of criteria used to determine what size components you should include as part of your total comfort system, things like square footage, number of windows, and year-round weather concerns. A load calculation is important so that your system operates at maximum efficiency, with optimum performance. Most homes have systems that are oversized, so you end up paying more than you should to heat and cool your home. Also, systems that are improperly sized tend to cycle too quickly or too slowly, and that can lead to maintenance problems, uneven temperatures, and an inability to control humidity. A properly sized system based on a correct load calculation can help ensure you enjoy long-lasting, reliable comfort whatever the season.

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Q: What size system do I need for my home?
A: It is important that new or replacement equipment is not sized by “Rule of Thumb” or by duplicating the existing equipment capacity. The only accurate way to determine the correct capacity of heating and air conditioning equipment for your home is to have a load calculation performed on your home. There is a specific method available to all dealers to do this calculation. This will give your dealer the heat gain and heat loss design data for your home. These figures can then be used to select the appropriately sized air conditioning or heating system for your home, based on equipment-performance data.

Many factors determine the size (capacity) system your home requires. Some of these are:

• square feet to be cooled and heated
• climate
• humidity
• number of windows
• insulation factors
• which direction your home faces
• heat producing appliances, and
• the number of people who will be in the home

Oversized air conditioning systems will not remove adequate moisture from the indoor air due to short cycling. Also, oversized systems quickly cool the indoor air temperature, but they do not run long enough to remove the humidity. That leaves you feeling stuffy and uncomfortable. Control of your home’s climate is rarely achieved with oversized systems and electricity consumption is higher than with a properly sized system. An oversized furnace is similar to an oversized air conditioning system. The furnace run time is short, creating uncomfortable air stratification and less air filtration. Also, the frequent cycling of the unit on and off can cause undue wear and tear on internal working components. An undersized air conditioning system will not adequately cool your home on the hottest days and an undersized furnace will not adequately heat your house on the coldest days.

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Q: What is involved in replacing an old system?
A: Aside from the placement of the new equipment, our representatives will inspect several items and make a determination of whether or not these items need to be supplied or replaced. Some of the items to be reviewed include: ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans and evaporator coil.

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Q: What is involved in installing a new system?
A: If a system is being added to the home for the first time, most of the items noted in the previous question and answer may be required to install the new system. Besides the new equipment, the most significant component is ductwork – which can be either metal or fiberglass ductwork. The ductwork needs to be properly sized to deliver the right amount of air to each room. The ductwork consists of supply and return ductwork. The supply duct is attached to the outlet of the furnace or air handler and delivers air to individual zones in your home. We will determine the size of the ductwork going into a space by the amount of air that needs to be delivered to the space.

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Q: How long can I expect a new system to last?
A: If you have one of our qualified technicians perform regular preventative maintenance and service suggested for your unit, industry averages suggest that an air conditioner should last 12-15 years (sea coast applications may be less) and a gas furnace should last as many as 20-25 years.

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Q: What are some preventative maintenance things I should be aware of?
A: With the proper attention, heating and cooling systems can keep you comfortable year-round. Heat pumps and oil-fired furnaces and boilers need a yearly professional tune-up. Gas-fired equipment, however, burns cleaner and can be serviced every other year. A close inspection by one of our service technicians will uncover leaks, soot, rust, rot, corroded electrical contacts and frayed wires. In furnace (forced-air) and boiler (hot-water) systems, the inspection should also cover the chimney, ductwork or pipes, dampers or valves, blower or pump, registers or radiators, the fuel line and the gas meter or oil tank — as well as every part of the furnace or boiler itself.

Next, the system should be run through a full heating cycle to ensure that it has plenty of combustion air and chimney draft. Finally, cleaning the burner and heat exchanger to remove soot and other gunk will prevent such buildup from impeding smooth operation. For the burner, efficiency hinges on adjusting the flame to the right size and color, adjusting the flow of gas or changing the fuel filter in an oil-fired system. A check of the heat pump should include an inspection of the compressor, fan, indoor and outdoor coils and refrigerant lines. Indoor and outdoor coils should be cleaned, and the refrigerant pressure should be checked.

• Blower
  Tuning up the distribution side of a forced-air system starts with the blower. The axle should be lubricated, blades cleaned and lower motor checked to insure the unit isn’t being overloaded. The fan belt should be adjusted so it deflects no more than an inch when pressed. Every accessible joint in the ductwork should be sealed with mastic or UL-approved duct tapes. Any ducts that run outside the heated space should be insulated. On a hot-water system, the expansion tank should be drained, the circulating pump cleaned and lubricated and air bled out of the radiators.
• Thermostat
  While thermostats rarely fail outright, they can degrade over time as mechanical parts stick or lose their calibration. Older units will send faulty signals if they’ve been knocked out of level or have dirty switches. To recalibrate an older unit, use a wrench to adjust the nut on the back of the mercury switch until it turns the system on and, using a room thermometer, set it to the correct temperature. Modern electronic thermostats, sealed at the factory to keep out dust and grime, rarely need adjusting. However, whether your thermostat is old or young, the hole where the thermostat wire comes through the wall needs to be caulked, or a draft could trick it into thinking the room is warmer or colder than it really is.
• Humidifier
  A neglected in-duct humidifier can breed mildew and bacteria, not to mention add too much moisture to a house. A common mistake with humidifiers is leaving them on after the heating season ends. Don’t forget to pull the plug, shut the water valve and drain the unit. A unit with a water reservoir should be drained and cleaned with white vinegar, a mix of one part chlorine bleach to eight parts water or muriatic acid. Mist-type humidifiers also require regular cleaning to remove mineral deposits.
• Filters
  Most houses with forced-air furnaces have a standard furnace filter made from loosely woven spun-glass fibers designed to keep it and its ductwork clean. Unfortunately, they don’t improve indoor air quality. That takes a media filter, which sits in between the main return duct and the blower cabinet. Made of a deeply pleated, paper-like material, media filters are at least seven times better than a standard filter at removing dust and other particles. An upgrade to a pleated media filter will cleanse the air of everything from insecticide dust to flu viruses. Compressed, media filters are usually no wider than six inches, but the pleated material can cover up to 75 square feet when stretched out. This increased area of filtration accounts for the filter’s long life, which can exceed two years. The only drawback to a media filter is its tight weave, which can restrict a furnace’s ability to blow air through the house. To insure a steady, strong airflow through the house, choose a filter that matches your blower’s capacity.
• Duct Cleaning
  A maze of heating and air conditioning ducts runs inside the walls and floors of 80 percent of American homes. As the supply ducts blow air into the rooms, return ducts inhale airborne dust and suck it back into the blower. Add moisture to this mixture and you’ve got a breeding ground for allergy-inducing molds, mites and bacteria. Many filters commonly used today can’t keep dust and debris from streaming into the air and over time sizable accumulations can form — think dust bunnies, but bigger. To find out if your ducts need cleaning, pull off some supply and return registers and take a look. If a new furnace is being installed, you should probably invest in a duct cleaning at the same time, because chances are the new blower will be more powerful than the old one and will stir up a lot of dust. Professional duct cleaners tout such benefits as cleaner indoor air, longer equipment life and lower energy costs. Clean HVAC systems can also perform more efficiently, which may decrease energy costs, and last longer, reducing the need for costly replacement or repairs. Cleaning has little effect on air quality, primarily because most indoor dust drifts in from the outdoors. But it does get rid of the stuff that mold and bacteria grow on, and that means less of it gets airborne, a boon to allergy sufferers.

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Q: Should I change my indoor coil?
A: When replacing your air conditioner or heat pump, the answer is most likely yes. The efficiency ratings that are advertised for an air conditioner or heat pump are based on the performance as part of a matched system. If only the outdoor portion is changed, the efficiency and savings could be less than that of a matched system.

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Q: What is covered in my warranty?
A: All products we offer come with a written limited warranty on parts. This warranty states that a replacement part will be furnished for any part of the product that fails in normal use and service during the applicable warranty period specified in accordance with the warranty’s terms. Our representatives can review with you the warranty periods for the products you select.

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